Hello all!
This will be my build thread for the new FMC Karl released.
I started yesterday with the 2 front panels, Sadly my build plate is not big enough for the single print, but Karl managed to split the 2 parts really nicely compared to other 3D prints out there so you don't even see the seam.

The top part came out pretty nice. My ender has some issues sometimes so I was actually very happy with the result. 0.1mm layer height with ironing on. Will require a little bit of filler and sanding but all in all a pretty decent part. This took about 9 hours with 25% infill. The support material came off very easy.
I did a quick screen fit test and it was a perfect fit!

I've had this screen for almost 2 years now, just laying around waiting for a perfect FMC. Karl, you have supplied and I'm a happy man! The screen protector is still on even ;)
One good giggle I had while looking at the fit on the back, Luckily this is a "Good Display". Thanks China!

Next up was the bottom half, the final couple layers didn't really go that well and I feel like the ironing made things a bit worse. But again, nothing a bit of filler and some sanding won't fix:

This print took another 9 hours, this time with 0.3mm layer height and ironing. With the 0.1mm layer height it would've taken about 20 hours. I want to get this build together and working before I start making things extra pretty! When it's all functional and together I'll hopefully have saved up enough to get a bigger printer to print everything in one part. Hopefully I can have someone print the buttons in resin for me. I would love to have the backlighting!
The 2 parts fit snug together and make a solid part. Currently printing the backplates (I am following the build guide and it asks to print the buttons first, but I want to have it all screwed together first!)
That's all for now, I'll update when I have more to show.
Cheers,
Roderick
I can't PM you, so here is a link: (will delete in 24h). The zip has 4 STLs cut by 1mm and also 4 GCODEs to try on your Ender with my settings. Hot end is always 195 and bed is 60. I have a BLTouch so you might need to remove command "G29" from the files. Ensure your speed is set to 60% on the Ender control panel.
Sure, will do so tomorrow. It is reduced by 1mm from the button. I did the same for the circular buttons (not sure on the number in the build guide). Will PM it to you.
I also purchased LED tactile buttons prior to this build guide via AliExpress. Like above images the top doesn’t sit flush, in reduced the height of 8A by 0.75mm IIRC from the bottom and it’s working pretty well.
I have the 1A Faceplate and the 3A Backplate complete print to my ender3 V2 printed. with prusa slider
Just for easy of use I'll order the proper switches then haha! Thanks for offering the redesign though!
Hello and I have just read through and hopefully digested everything. Your switches are different to mine. They are indeed taller by 1mm.
The bad news is this can be easily corrected by raising the faceplate thickness by 1mm, but this is going to take a reprint of your faceplates.
Can you take dimensional pictures of the upper white clip and i will have to redesign the button bases to fit your switches.
Kind regards Karl
Hello all!
Finally I've made some more progress with the FMC. The backplate was giving my printer some issues, now that I've tuned it up (Calibrating steps extrusion like Karl suggested was one of the fixes) it printed fine again:
I am loving the look with all the buttons in, I can really feel it starting to come together now. I moved on to the buttons, this is where I ran into some issues. I'm pretty sure the switches I have are a slight tad taller than the ones Karl uses. This causes the distance from the bottom of the switch to the top of the printed cap to be too much and putting the faceplate on will press the button.
This is the gap when the printed cap is touching the top plate. If I press down the face plate more, the switch will trigger.
Karl asked for some pictures of the switch:
One more issue I have with the cap: It's supposed to snap into place. And it will, except it will only snap into place when the switch is rotated 90 degrees. Meaning the pins won't line up properly, see picture:
Rotated like that the switch will click in properly (insert at angle and snap into place).
Rotated the proper way there is no click and it sits in loosely.
Thank you all for following along, hopefully more to show soon!
Cheers,
Roderick
That was a fantastic read! and loved the feedback and seeing someone else create the design.
I really am hoping these following questions may help you achieve an even better finish.
Have you calibrated your steps extrusion? It looks like you are under extruding and your top layers look a little thin which is why you can see the supports underneath.
Really looking forward to seeing and reading more!
Kind regards Karl