Hope Karl doesn't mind me leaving this here. I don't know if any one has mentioned it elsewhere.
I found an error on the parts list for the 12v Panel light (the parking break light).
The part is listed as a 22mm cut out pilot light in the required hardware, but the cut out itself is only 16mm.
Am loving the plan so far. I've printed all my parts (took 2 weeks) and got all my components ready, but I'm reprinting a couple of the handle parts again as I wasn't happy with my first choice of white PLA - a fibre one from Protopasta. I'm redoing them with PolyMax now.
If I come across anything else I'll list it here.
Yup, I've now got a spare 22mm light too :-/
Another minor error - the stab trim decal just says 'OUT', not 'CUT OUT'
I made a simple new panel light in Fusion, it uses a 5mm LED and I retained the cap from the 22mm panel light. I can share it with you if you like.
How is you build going Bill? I'm currently assembling mine. the flaps and thrust levers are in, I'm going to do the speed brake today.
One of the trickiest bits so far has been removing support fill from the levers, how did you get on with that?
hoho, I hadn't noticed the stab trim decal typo. I'm redoing some of my decals since figuring out how to change the colour of the pla spool mid print.
If you're meaning the flaps and speed brake levers, try printing with just buildplate support. The hollow centres are narrow enough to not need support.
Well, I've done them now, and it was a frickin nightmare. Had to drill most of the support out. I'm still learning the ins and outs of 3d printing. I'll bear that in mind though for future prints. When I'm done with the TQ I'm going to go for the yoke next ;-)
Hi Guys, just catching up on the forum! I have moved away from the build guide provided with the design and now have an online version where mistakes and links can be updated as soon as someone points them out. The link for the light should now be the correct one.
As for the spelling mistake! OOOOpppppppssssss! Let me get that sorted.
Thanks Karl
How to print the flaps and speed brake with no internal support.
Ahhh. Of course. Doh! I think I was afraid of warping doing upright prints being a newbie to this so I laid mine flat.
Karl, I'm about to embark on the yoke prints which will take a couple of weeks at 100% fill. Any tips on orientation?
I;m guessing as show in the build guide.
Hi, Dont print at 100% unless you really want a solid bit of kit. 40% i have found is pretty optimum. 20-25% min. I printed them flat down so all the supports are at the back so you cannot see them. However, if you are going to use filler/sand and paint, i would stand them on there outside ends.
@Karl Clarke Cool! Thankyou so much. I've been making some great progress, I'm in lock down here in the UK, so its a good time for building.
Hi Folks, I have my throttle quadrant printed and assembled. Not very electronically aware. In wiring up the micro switches I applied power to the normally closed contact. When I apply power on switch lights up and switches off when I operate parking brake. Do I apply power to the normally open contact?
Those micro switches (if you got the ones listed by Karl), can be wired as push to make OR push to break, so first of all it will depend on which terminals you wired up. Do you have a multimeter?
Having said that, what Sim are you planning on using? If you're using prosim737, then it might not matter so much as prosim has button options for closed or open, if you know what I mean.
A multimeter is a really essential tool. I constantly was checking my wiring was correct as I built the TQ. And labeling everything well! I even got as far as finishing, adding the decals and connecting it all to my leobodnar and then finding that the parking brake light wasn't working. Frustrated, I pulled it apart, cut out the LED only to discover the LED was fine. I backtracked and found that I'd mis-wired the parking brake light and the parking brake switch (they were using the same wire colour but I'd switched the label somehow.) This was not the only small mistake I made along the way, but I'm super pleased with how its turned out. I wired in a new LED and reassembled and its all working now and shows up correctly in Prosim737 My next task it to better calibrate the joystick axis. Because the pots are not perfectly aligned with each other, the inputs are slightly out of sync. They are both max at max and min at min, but they are out of sync in the middle.
I'm going to try this utility tomorrow, it might work with other joystick inputs but I'm not sure: http://www.leobodnar.com/products/BU0836/DIView.zip
Hi,thanks for your reply. I did indeed get the ones recommended by Karl and appear to have wired power to the normally closed terminal. This means that it is powered up, when I operate the switch it turns off which is the opposite of what I want. This appears to be the same for the fuel cut off switches. I watched Karl's video and that appears to be what he did. I am not using prosim as I just wanted to convert my throttle to work with P3DV4. Regards, John
You might need to go back and re-wire them then. :-(
There might be some clever trick you can do with the interface. What board are you using for the inputs?
The videos are not always absolute gospel. There are a couple of boobs in there. I had to watch the videos multiple times and freeze frame to be sure and I think there are a couple of mistakes around those micro switch bits I believe. No disrespect to Karl obviously, he's a Don!
Hi, Videos never tell the whole story, as I can hide or cutout a lot of errors. I have to try a fit a 6 week build into less than 15 minutes, and people still ask if I could shorten them more. However, I do recommend wiring the microswitches to the normally open position.
Yes, I think I have to do a tear down and rewire. I have bothe the micro pro and the leonardo micro. Hoping to use the Leonardo after drilling hole in back of side panel. I am an amateur in wiring stuff but did use my multimeter to determine circuits
Yeah, I drilled through to get my cable bundle through to the leobodnar. Is it just the fuel cut outs and parking break? At least you only have to take the front section off the rods... (what I just did today;-) )
Thanks I feel better now. Yes it appears that it is just the micro switches. Since I am not using prosim I do not think I will have to wire the stab trim switches and I can't find a setting it P3DV4 or do you think mobiflight might have an offset? Glad to talk to someone else that is going through this. Regards,
I don't know mobiflight, so I hope someone else can chime in here! Good luck.
I use Prosim and Mobiflight. The offset is easy for me. but not that i have ever used the trim cutout switches yet. I cant imagine PMDG including these in the offsets yet.