I have started working on my FMC build from the plans here and got a resin printer to help with more accurate button and LED filters needed for these builds.
So far I'm still getting a hang of tuning my resin printer, but have had a lot of problems with the buttons sticking and printing. Does anyone have recommendations as to orientation, supports, or settings to get better results on some of the button parts?
I've had issues with parts falling off which I've fixed with exposure setting, but I've also had issues with the corners not being sharp.
My efforts so far have been so bad that I've mostly thrown them out, so I'll try and print some tonight to get photos up. I'm gonna try a test with a bunch of different orientations and the various button types to so that I can get an idea of what support/angles work best or not.
Good morning,
This is how I achieved the resin print buttons and found this to be by far the best orientation.
You can see that I used medium supports at the lower edge and upper back edge. This meant all supports could be sanded removed and sanded very easily.
The near 45 degree tilt is essential. Printing the button flat leaves excess resin in the final steps which cause problems with button fit and text finish as the excess resin is trapped and then hardens where it should not be.
The buttons themselves are designed to be 0.4mm in diameter to be smaller. This accounts for the excess resin on my machines that sets during the curing process.
This is why they are Resin buttons and filament buttons. I have to create two sizes for every component.
Can I suggest, you print a ring, 20mm external diameter, 15mm internal diameter, and then use a set of digital callipers to measure the ring and let me know the results. I am suspecting you may have increased the exposure time too much, which is leading to the excess resin being cured on the part.
I am about to change the G1000 design today, so this knowledge would be very helpful moving forward.
Kind Regards,
Karl