Hi all, hope everyone is well and safe.
This is my throttle v3.4 build so far. My first go at something like this so the printing isn't perfect, still working on bed adhesion etc.
I will be re-printing the end caps as they didn't come out great the first time, and I haven't done the trim wheels or extended base mod from v3.4 yet, need to get more PLA for those!
Now I have a mass of wires at the back that need sorting so any tips are welcome! 😊
I had a few issues along the way, either due to some parts being a but snug, or because of my printing making them that way so I had to file some parts to fit better such as the parking brake/bracket.
I did the build following both the Youtube vid and the step-by-step instructions on the build guide, and noted a few things along the way which may help others in future:
For the parts list:
On Step 12 - M5x20mm countersunk screws
On Step 16 - M3x18mm countersunk screws
Step 12 - with the new v3.4 mods the thicker backplates on the throttle handles now will need longer screws than the original M4x8mm, maybe M4x12mm to cater for the extra width.
Step 51 and 53 are the same
Step 78 is blank
I am very impressed with your workmanship Karl, the work you have put into these designs is immense!
Ozzy
Hi Karl and Tim,
Thank you for the tips! I have some tinkering to do now with all those settings 😊
I'll be re-printing the end caps so will post more progress pics soon.
Thanks
Ozzy
Hi Ozzy, some good advice there from Karl. I will add however that I have found that printing PLA at the lower end tolerance nozzle temp of around 205 degs can cause the extruder motor to miss step the filament feed with an average 40 to 50mm print speed set. This is specifically where the infill and retract speeds and distance are defaulted. This is due to the PLA being at the start of its free flowing (liquid) state at the nozzle which can be like old engine oil in the winter where its still thick, and therefore harder to push through the PLA out of the 0.4mm nozzle. I have set mine to 225 degs and have increased filament tension on the extruder spline drive with no issues since. It is worth noting that the extruder motor can get extremely hot and transfer the heat to the extruder spline drive therefore heating the PLA as it feeds almost to melting point which also causes the extruder to miss step. As for warping issues, I have found that covering the printer with a heat shroud (either ready made or improvised to maintain a constant temp around and through the print) and not adjusting the bed temp from initial layer setting helps to maintain a constant temp between the bed and print, and therefore adhesion. I have had no further warp issues since (the print always cools at a faster rate than the bed and can warp due to this; even a slight breeze to the progressive print can cause it to warp). I automatically upturned the Ender 3 V2 bed to the glass side for better adhesion from the start and clean in between prints with ethyl alcohol. Another tip I can offer is to reduce the Z axis for the first layer to -0.03 even after levelling the bed. This allows for better first layer adhesion. You can then adjust to Z +0.02 to +0.08 for even and smooth subsequent layers. Right, well, sorry to blab on. 😉
Hi Ozzy, Its looks fantastic and thank you for the feedback. I personally love the thicker backplates! Makes the unit look solid! I can also see some of your warping issues. Last week i took a day away from the sim to see if i personally can get better prints. What I achieved in that day was amazing by listening to every single youtuber i could find. Then creating a mishmash of solutions. Here is some tips:
MY CURRENT PRINTER TIPS
I recommend only using a 0.4mm nozzle for all parts and accepting the time loss over a 0.6 or 0.8mm nozzle. My current PLA print temp 205 degrees, (it used to be 220 degrees)
With a 0.2mm nozzle the Z height for support should be 0.2mm
Flip over your creality glass bed so its smooth side up for PLA prints. Wash it under the tap with washing up liquid. Ensure all grease is removed. Do Not touch the surface with your fingers once done. PLA parts stick no problem! Watch Ivan Mirandas video on the subject. If he can print 5FT parts with no warping, then we can print 300mm parts this way! It was worked flawlessly for me and the parts come away with a glass like finish.
The next part is that i set the bed to 70 degrees for the first layer, than reduce the bed temp down to 60 degrees from that point on.
Use conical support, this saves a huge amount of print time and PLA.
Just with these few changes, my prints are now awesome! I will sort the guides out later! Thank You and Kind Regards Karl