737 MCP - 3d Printed Easy Build
This page is split into three main sections:
Parts Guide
Print Guide
Build Guide
The ultimate printer I can recommend is the Bambu Labs X1 carbon with AMS or P1P if you have deep pockets. ($1200). It's a massive leap forward in 3D printing, with excellent quality and impressive speeds. It's pretty much press print and go as the software and hardware do the calibration before each print.
I'm excited to present to you a new and improved version of the $38 DIY MCP design that fully utilizes 3D printing technology. Although it's not an exact copy, this design is fully functional and has been modified specifically for 3D printing. One of the key modifications is that the text is now larger, resulting in clear and crisp text. Additionally, various components have been strategically repositioned for easy fitment. Assembly is a breeze and requires no additional mounting hardware other than their own attachment nuts and screws. The wiring is also much easier, thanks to the use of full 7219 boards. To simplify the design, backlighting has been removed, but it may be added in a more complex version in the future.
The unit is larger compared to the real aircraft version, measuring 490 x 89mm, which was done to enable the use of full-size components and enlarged 3D printed text.
To print this design, a minimum print size of 220mm x 220mm is required. However, for the best overall finish, I highly recommend using a bed size of 300mm x 300mm.
General Information:
Build Guide
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STEP:
0
Use the Wiring Diagram as you go along during the build. A detailed PDF can be found below:
https://031b6b45-11f6-46a7-ab8e-17be9aef4dad.usrfiles.com/ugd/031b6b_69b5344119e24851bde20b1bd37492ed.pdf
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STEP:
0.1
Use the KD2 Wiring Diagram as you go along during the build. A detailed PDF can be found below:
https://031b6b45-11f6-46a7-ab8e-17be9aef4dad.usrfiles.com/ugd/031b6b_0d5031b11e6e4b3d9f1f8f07c4528076.pdf
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STEP:
1
Place the LH box (1) and the centre Box (2) together. Ensure the mating tabs fit together smoothly.
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STEP:
2
Insert the LH brace (4) into the box assembly, align the holes in the box and brace.
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STEP:
3
Insert the LH Brace (4) onto the join on the two sections
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STEP:
3
Insert Qty 4, M4 x 10mm Countersunk screws through the box assembly into the left brace(4).
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STEP:
4
Turn the unit over and secure with QTY 4, M4 x 10mm Screws
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STEP:
4
Place the RH Box (3) onto the centre Box, Insert the RH brace (5)
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STEP:
5
Insert Qty 4, M4 x 10mm countersunk screws.
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STEP:
5
Place the RH Box (3) section onto the assy along with the RH Brace (5)
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STEP:
6
Insert the Arduino Brace (6) on the support braces (4 & 5) and secure with Qty 4, M4 x 12mm Screws.
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STEP:
6
Once again, turn the unit over and secure it with Qty4, M4 x 10mm Screws.
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STEP:
7
Insert the Arduino Brace (6) over the 4 brace towers. Secure with QTY 4, M4 x 12mm Screws.
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STEP:
7
Place the two Ardunio supports (7&8) onto the brace plate (6). Secure with Qty 4, M4 x 6mm Countersunk Screws.
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STEP:
8
Place the QTY 2, Arduino Mounts (8) onto the brace and secure with Qty 4, M4 x 10mm Screws
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STEP:
8
Place the QTY2 Arduino Megas onto the mounts and s secure them with M2.6 x 6mm screws. Ensure the USB port protrude through the box structure.
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STEP:
9
Insert the two Ardunio Megas and affix them with M2.6mm x 5mm screws.
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STEP:
10
Solder the header pins on the blue PCB Backed MAx7219 Boards. Ensure they protrude rewards into the unit. Insert the Max7219 boards into the LH Backplate (12)
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STEP:
11
Secure with M3 x 6mm Screws
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STEP:
12
Insert two black push buttons without any locking nuts attached
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STEP:
13
Turn the unit over, and attach the supplied nuts onto the push button shafts. Tighten.
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STEP:
14
Insert QTY 2, Green 5mm LEDS into their locations and bend the legs over to help them stay located. Ensure the anodes all face the same way.
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STEP:
14.1
Insert QTY 2, Mini Toggle switches into the baseplate. (ON/OFF)
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STEP:
14.2
Insert QTY 2 locknut to secure the mini-toggle switches onto the backplate.
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STEP:
15
Insert Qty3 encoders into the LH Faceplate (13). Ensure the locating tang's seat correctly into the designed recesses.
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STEP:
16
Secure the 3 encoders with the supplied locking nuts.
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STEP:
17
Insert the 1x12 position rotary switch into the lower bank angle orifice.
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STEP:
18
secure the rotary switch with the supplied nut.
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STEP:
19
Place the faceplate on the backplate and ensure everything seats correctly.
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STEP:
20
Secure the faceplate with M3 x 6mm screws.
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STEP:
21
Insert the KD2-22 Pushbuttons into the LH Faceplate.
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STEP:
22
The unit should look like this.
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STEP:
23
Place QTY 3 max7219 boards into the RH Backplate
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STEP:
24
Secure with M3 x 6mm Screws
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STEP:
25
Insert the green LED into the RH Backplate, Once again ensure the anode faces the same way as set on the LH side.
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STEP:
26
Insert a push button into the backplate assy. Secure with the supplied locknut.
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STEP:
27
Insert Qty ON/OFF mini-toggle switch into the FD position. Use two mini-toggle momentary on-off-on switches for the AP disengage. Secure with the supplied locknuts.
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STEP:
28
Place the VS knob on the Encoder. Place the assy into the orifice shown.
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STEP:
29
Secure with the encoder brace(25) and Qty 2, M3 x 8mm screws. Do not overtighten!
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STEP:
30
Insert the last encoders into the RH Faceplate
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STEP:
31
Secure the encoders with the supplied nuts.
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STEP:
33
Place the faceplate on the backplate
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STEP:
35
Secure the faceplate to the backplate with M3 x 8mm screws.
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STEP:
36
Slide the two faceplates together
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STEP:
37
Secure the two halves with QTY 3, M3 x8mm Screws.
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STEP:
38
Insert the Qty 6, display bevels.
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STEP:
39
Place all the knobs onto the unit. Secure with M3 x 4mm grub screws.
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STEP:
40
Place the faceplate Assy, onto the backbox and secure it with M4 x 10mm Screws.
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STEP:
41
After wiring, place the LH & RH top plates onto the unit and secure with M4 x 10mm screws.
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STEP:
42
Place the top centre panel onto the unit and secure it with M4 x 10mm countersunk screws.