General Information:

STEP:

This build starts with the combined Bank Angle and rotary encoder build. The 3D print files can be downloaded from the Link Button.

STEP:

Insert QTY 2, M4 Tapered brass inserts (6mm OD, 6 or 8 mm long) into the orifices shown on the front face of the case.

STEP:

Insert QTY 2, M4 Tapered brass inserts (6mm OD, 6 or 8 mm long) into the orifices shown on the back face of the case.

STEP:

Insert QTY 4, M4 Tapered brass inserts (6mm OD, 6 or 8 mm long) into the orifices shown on the front face of the mount.

STEP:

Insert the 1p x 12T rotary switch into the larger office of the backplate. Ensure that the locking ring is set to 5 before insertion and that the locating tab is positioned in the backplate recess. Count the total number of rotations; it should be 5. If it is not, adjust the locking ring on the rotary shaft accordingly. Once installed and tightened in position, set the rotary switch to the 3rd position (the middle detent of the 5).

STEP:

Install the encoder into the smaller orifice of the backplate; ensure the locating tab is situated correctly in the recess.

STEP:

Insert a 684-2RS bearing into the recess of the backplate.

STEP:

Install the inner shaft onto the bearing

STEP:

Place another 684H-2RS bearing onto the upper surface of the shaft.

STEP:

Install the outer shaft onto the inner shaft, ensuring the bearing is fully home to the base of the outer shaft.

STEP:

Place the encoder gear onto its shaft

STEP:

Place the rotary switch gear onto its shaft

STEP:

When placing the rotary switch gear, ensure that the outer shaft flat is at the 6 o'clock position, as shown. Do not turn the rotary switch from its middle position. Adjust the outer shaft instead to ensure the correct location.

STEP:

Place the case over the assembly, Ensuring the Rotary switch shaft pin is located in the case's orifice.

STEP:

Secure the assemblies with QTY 2, M4 x 10mm screws

STEP:

Place the mount on to the case

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Secure with QTY 2, M4 x 10mm screws.

STEP:

Thats the combined unit completed and ready for installation onto the PCB (Step 228).

STEP:

Place the three-digit 7-segment displays on the PCB, ensuring correct orientation. Secure them to the board with solder on the backside. Repeat for all 3 displays

STEP:

Place the 5-digit 7-segment displays on the PCB, ensuring correct orientation. Secure them to the board with solder on the backside. Repeat for all 3 displays.

STEP:

Trim the excess from the legs on the backside to just above the solder tear drop (approx 2mm from the surface of the board)

STEP:

Peel off the protective film from all the displays.

STEP:

Place the CPT FD switch into position. Please note the orientation of the switch! The upper two holes must be used in the board. The lower one remains empty when using a 2-pin switch. This is null and void when using a 3-pin switch. Solder is in place using only the centre pin! Adjust to ensure the switch is centred and straight before soldering the second or 3rd pin.

STEP:

Place the A/T arm switch into position. Please note the orientation of the switch! The upper two holes must be used in the board. The lower one remains empty when using a 2-pin switch. This is null and void when using a 3-pin switch. Some users may want a 3-pin momentary switch instead of an On/Off switch. This makes the unit much easier to use as the switch always reverts to centre regardless of the state of the switch. The A/T arm LED becomes the status indicator rather than the position of the switch. This way, when the A/T disengages, a momentary press can switch the A/T back on. Solder is in place using only the centre pin! Adjust to ensure the switch is centred and straight before soldering the second or 3rd pin.

STEP:

Place the F/O FD switch into position. Please note the orientation of the switch! The upper two holes must be used in the board. The lower one remains empty when using a 2-pin switch. This is null and void when using a 3-pin switch. Solder is in place using only the centre pin! Adjust to ensure the switch is centred and straight before soldering the second or 3rd pin.

STEP:

The AP disconnect switches are DIFFERENT! They require the bottom holes to be utilised and not the top like the others. So, for these two switches, the centre and lower orifices are used for soldering the switches. Solder is in place using only the centre pin! Adjust to ensure the switch is centred and straight before soldering the second or 3rd pin.

STEP:

Install the Qty 4 encoders into the locations on the front of the PCB

STEP:

Secure each of the encoders with solder. The primary attachment pins may require a lot of solder to secure them properly.

STEP:

All four encoders should now be installed straight and flat against the board.

STEP:

Install an encoder into the mount. If you need to print this part, please use the LINK button for the STL.

STEP:

Use the nut to secure the component, and ensure the locating tang sits into its dedicated recess.

STEP:

Cut off all legs except the three encoder legs inline on one side.

STEP:

Push the VS knob onto the shaft. If you need to print the knob, please use the LINK button to download the files. If you need the CAD, please click this link: https://a360.co/3VZ0Cc2
Bend the three remaining legs straight. The unit should look like this.

STEP:

Cut 3 prices of 24/26 AWG guage wire to approx 2"/5cm. Strip both ends and tin with solder.

STEP:

Solder one end of the wires to each of the pins.

STEP:

After all 3 wires are attached to the encoder, place two pieces (approx 1/2"/12mm) of heat shrink on each wire.

STEP:

I used a female 3-pin DuPont connector to allow easy removal. This is not included in the kit, as originally you should attach the wires directly to the board or male DuPont pins.

STEP:

Install the QTY 2 M3 x 10 or 12mm screws into the front of the PCB. Add the VS encoder to the backside of the PCB

STEP:

Secure the assembly with QTY 2, M3 nuts.

STEP:

Install the VS male dupont pins on the rear of the PCB (3 inline) and secure with solder on the frontside of the PCB.

STEP:

PLEASE take note. The encoder centre pin is ground, but the first pin is ground on the board. The other two wires on the encoder (outer pins) can be fitted either way around to pins 2 and 3 on the PCB.

STEP:

Place the connector onto the male pins, or solder these wires onto the pins directly, ensuring the correct order of connections.

STEP:

Install the 6 PIN Dupont male header pins into the back of the PCB.

STEP:

Solder on the front side. Only solder one pin to start to ensure the pin header is straight and flush with the board.

STEP:

Install the HDG 3 Pin Dupont header into the back of the board next to the BA header

STEP:

Solder in Place: Once again, only solder one at first to ensure straightness and correct position.

STEP:

Insert the BA & HDG encoder assy created in the 100 series of this build guide into the back of the PCB

STEP:

Secure with Qty 1, M4 x 6 or 8mm dome head screws. Do not overtighten to damage the PCB.

STEP:

Secure with a further Qty 3, M4 x 6 or 8mm dome head screws. Do not overtighten to damage the PCB.

STEP:

Cut six wires to 5" lengths and three wires to 6" lengths. Strip and solder (tin) both ends of each cable. Solder one 5" wire to the Ground/Common pin of the Rotary switch (the middle one).

STEP:

Place two heat shrink pieces (approximately 2mm in diameter and 1-20mm in length onto the wire).

STEP:

Please ensure that you wire the rotary switch correctly. The topmost pin is GND, which goes to the middle pin on the rotary encoder. Then Pin 2 on the header (BA 10) goes to the outer pin 1 of the roatry switch. Then, Pin 3 on the header (BA 15) goes to the outer pin 2 of the rotary switch. This continues until pin 5 on the rotary encoder which corresponds to BA 30.

STEP:

Solder the centre wire to the topmost header pin (GND). In this picture, I use a Female Dupont header (Not included) for easy removal, but the wire can be soldered directly to the male header pins.

STEP:

Repeat for the outer six cables as per the wiring diagram.

STEP:

Use a 6" wire to solder to the centre pin of the encoder (GND/COM)

STEP:

Place two pieces of heat shrink onto the cable.

STEP:

Use the wiring diagram above to ensure the pins are correctly wired. The centre pin of the encoder must go to the topmost pin of the header (GND). The other two pins (UP/DN) do not matter.

STEP:

Solder the wire to the top most header pin

STEP:

Repeat for the other two wires

STEP:

Tidy the cable/wires with Tywraps/cable ties or lacing cord.

STEP:

Install the 4-pin USB header at the rear of the board.

STEP:

Once again, I used a female dupont header to connect the cable to the board.

STEP:

Please use the wiring diagram to ensure you connect the cable correctly.

STEP:

This concludes the PCB assy.

STEP:

If you want to 3D print the MCP faceplate, I have already divided it into three parts. Each part is available as an STL file for printing. Additionally, there is one 3MF file designed for use with a Bambu printer; it has already been sliced and simply needs to be loaded. The 3MF file requires grey and white filament, and all three parts fit on one Bambu plate. This print can be started with a single button press and will take approximately four hours to complete.

STEP:

Peel the protective backing from the backside of the faceplate. If you want to create the faceplates yourself, please download the DXF from the Link Button.

STEP:

Peel the protective backing from the front side of the backplate. Please note that the bubbling of the protective film is routine and has no effect on the part underneath.

STEP:

Peel the protective backing from the backside side of the backplate. The Backplate should now be transparent to allow the light to flow through it.

STEP:

If you have created your own faceplate, you will need the 3d printed guards printed and fitted before painting. These can be downloaded using the Link Button.

STEP:

Apply a tiny amount of superglue to the A/T arm-led orifice on the back side. DO NOT get any superglue near the front face—it will ruin it. You will also notice that the Lens has a chamfer and will only go in one way from the front, small side in first, and the lens should get tighter as it's pushed in. You can use clear cellotape on the back side instead of superglue.

STEP:

Apply a tiny amount of superglue to the CPT MA lens orifice on the back side. DO NOT get any superglue near the front face—it will ruin it. You will also notice that the Lens has a chamfer and will only go in one way from the front, small side in first, and the lens should get tighter as it's pushed in. The letters are engraved backwards on the inner surface so when read from the front, they are correct. You can use clear cellotape on the back side instead of superglue.

STEP:

Apply a tiny amount of superglue to the F/O MA lens orifice on the back side. DO NOT get any superglue near the front face—it will ruin it. You will also notice that the Lens has a chamfer and will only go in one way from the front, small side in first, and the lens should get tighter as it's pushed in. The letters are engraved backwards on the inner surface so when read from the front, they are correct. You can use clear cellotape on the back side instead of superglue.

STEP:

Firstly, remove the protective backing from both sides of the backplate. Insert the QTY 6 tinted lenses into the Backplate. Once again, each lens has a chamfer cut and will only go in one way from the front. DO NOT force them in if they are tight! Use a file to ensure a snug fit. Too much pressure, and they will crack the Backplate! If they are loose, super glue or sellotape can hold them in position on the backside.

STEP:

Use Superglue to install all 14 outer korry cases into their orifices of the backplate. Please ensure the glue is fully dry before continuing so that sticky fingers don't damage any other parts. These can be downloaded using the LINK button.

STEP:

Place the faceplate over the backplate, guiding and gently massaging the faceplate over the outer Korry cases.

STEP:

Install an M3 nut into the nut spacer. The STL can be found using the LINK button if you want to print these.

STEP:

Secure the Faceplate and Backplate with QTY 6, M3 x 20mm screws from the front.

STEP:

Secure the screws with the M3 nut spacers.

STEP:

This screw (M3 x 20mm) between the FD switch and AT switch required the half moonlight guide on the backside.

STEP:

Install the Half Moon Light guide with a m3 nut. Use a tool on the screw side to secure it in place over the two led lenses. If you require the STL, It can be downloaded using the LINK button.

STEP:

This screw above the F/O FD SW (M3 x 20mm) also requires a light guide on the back side.

STEP:

Install the light guide so the orifice is over the F/O MA lens with an M3 nut. Once in position, secure using a tool from the front side. This can be downloaded using the LINK button to print it.

STEP:

Install the window frames. These can be downloaded using the LINK button.

STEP:

If you would like to print your own Korrys, we have attached the necessary files for printing with a BAMBU that has a colour-changing unit. Two files are available for download: a general unsliced STL file and a fully sliced Bambu file in 3MF format for immediate printing.

STEP:

If you want to print your own Korrys, we have attached the necessary files for printing with a standard printer using a single colour (white). The text is embossed, making it suitable for resin printing as well.

For filament or resin printers, these should be printed in white and then sprayed with black paint. After that, sand the text to remove the black paint, revealing the white underneath. This process will allow the units to be backlit effectively.

STEP:

If you want to print your own Korrys for laser-engraved parts, we have attached the necessary files using the LINK button.

STEP:

From the backside, install the 14 Korry buttons. Use step 35 to ensure all buttons are correctly located.

STEP:

Try not to tip the buttons out of the faceplates while ensuring the correct location and orientation of the korrys.

STEP:

Install the Qty 3 round buttons. These can be downloaded using the LINK button.

STEP:

That is the faceplate finished, and it is ready for attachment to the PCB.

STEP:

Install the PCB onto the faceplate ASSY, ensuring that the faceplate remains pointing down so that none of the buttons fall out. If the unit is too stiff to push together, it's usually because the toggle switches are not relatively straight. Give them a little wiggle, and you will move the units together. Be gentle and work the parts together until the PCB seats against the M3 spacers.

STEP:

Install an M3 nut on each of the protruding screws (total 8). Do not over-tighten. Just snug the nuts against the PCB so it causes no damage.

STEP:

The Knobs STL's can be downloaded by using the LINK button. If you need the CAD to adjust the design, please use this link: https://a360.co/3VZ0Cc2

STEP:

Install the QTY 2, M3 x 5mm grub screws

STEP:

Install QTY 2, M3 brass inserts (M3 x 5mm OD x 5mm Length) into the AP dis Bar. Tap them in place with a mallet, then use super glue to hold them permanently.

STEP:

Push the bar onto the toggle switches and gently secure it with the two grub screws.

STEP:

Install the BA knob; It doesn't matter if this is loose.

STEP:

Instal the heading knob; use a Black permanent marker to highlight the embossed triangle. This should be a tight-press fit. It's designed with a taper. So, the more it's inserted into the shaft, the tighter it gets. If it's loose, shrink the STL by 1% increments.

STEP:

Install the two-course knobs and use a red permanent marker to highlight the embossed symbol. If the knob is loose, splay the tongs of the pot slightly.

STEP:

Instal the IAS knob. If the knob is loose, splay the tongs of the pot slightly.

STEP:

Install the ALT knob and use a black permanent marker to highlight the embossed symbol. If the knob is loose, splay the tongs of the pot slightly.

STEP:

Use the QTY 4 replica Dzus fasteners in each of the corners. Secure with the required length countersunk fastener (not included). Karl uses Hex head M4 x 14mm countersunk screws for his builds.

STEP:

The Mobiflight config file (MFMC) can be downloaded using the link Button. This sets up all the electrical components and tells Mobiflight what is attached to which pin on the Pico.

STEP:

The Mobiflight config file MMC for Prosim

STEP:

Craig created this file, and all credit goes to him—a massive thank you for helping. This is for MSFS2020.

STEP:

Nicolas Revello created this file, and all credit goes to him—a massive thank you for helping. This is for MSFS2020 and includes the VS data.

STEP:

Please download the XP12 Mobiflight config files and LUA for the Bank Angle knob. These files were provided by the fantastic AndreaF.(SLR051) on Discord. Thank You from us here at 737DIYSIM and on half of the sim builder community.

STEP:

If you want the Desktop stand files, please download them using the LINK button. If You would like the CAD it can be found here: https://a360.co/4jp5YXY

STEP:

If you have a Bambu printer, Please download the pre-sliced files using the LINK button. These parts do not need support, and all three major parts fit on one build plate, requiring 8 hours of print time.

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