Boeing 737 - 3D Printed FMC
This page is split into three main sections:
Parts Guide
Print Guide
Build Guide
The ultimate printer I can recommend is the Bambu Labs X1 carbon with AMS or P1P if you have deep pockets. ($1200). It's a massive leap forward in 3D printing, with excellent quality and impressive speeds. It's pretty much press print and go as the software and hardware do the calibration before each print.
It's taken months to produce this fully back lightable 3d printed model of the 737 FMC. It tried to get as much design detail into the unit to make it stand out. Hundreds of buttons were printed in trying to find the correct type that would work well and look good. The carry handle is a separate moving print to add to the authenticity.
It's based around the Cheap 5" LCD display available from eBay. Please ensure you get the driver board as well with your purchase.
Please check out the final build photos. The text is raised to allow true liteflow performance (backlighting) and works amazingly with resin prints. This also works with filament prints but the text is not as crisp.
The parts can be printed on an Ender 3 bed which requires the 220mm x 220mm bed size. The design is split into two parts to achieve this. There is also the single-piece version that can be printed on a bed size of 300 x300mm like the CR10v3.
This design includes 4 different STL versions to suit your needs:
1) Embossed Text for filament printers
2) Engraved text version for filament printers
3) Embossed Text for resin printers
4) Engraved text version for resin printers
This is a simple build! mainly consisting of a faceplate and backplate. There are lots of buttons to print! (69) The time-consuming part is the wiring of all those tactile switches. Some may find this a little difficult. But if you want a cheap working unit that can be built at home, this is it!
General Information:
Build Guide
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STEP:
1
If your printer has a bed size of 300mm x 300mm or bigger, I would suggest printing the full-size Faceplate part 1A. If you have a smaller bed size such as 220 x220mm like the Ender 3, I would suggest printing parts 1B1 & 1B2. If you have time I would also recommend a 0.1mm layer height and ironing switched on. this is an EPIC print taking over 24 hrs with 25% infill. Once the part is done, remove all stringing and ensure all orifices are clear of artefacts that may interfere with the buttons.
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STEP:
2
Use a white paint pen to colour in the raised ident lines.
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STEP:
3
Ensure all support material is removed from the LCD mating face to prevent any damage to the unit.
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STEP:
4
If your printer has a bed size of 300mm x 300mm or bigger, I would suggest printing the full-size Backplate part 3A. If you have a smaller bed size such as 220 x220mm like the Ender 3, I would suggest printing parts 3B1 & 3B2.
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STEP:
5
Print the Upper action button Base (8A)in white PLA.
PRINT ONLY ONE! for test purposes. There are two versions to print depending on your printer type.
8A is for filament print
8B is for resin print.
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STEP:
6
Insert the tactile switch into the base at a 45-degree angle and then push the other side in. You may need to use a small screwdriver to compress the switch tongue to put the switch in. It should click into place and be held securely into the switch. Try not to bend the legs of the unit when you handle them. This will make fitting them to the board much harder.
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STEP:
7
Place the black cap 9A over the base, you may need to use superglue if it's a little loose depending on your print quality. Ensure the cap goes over the part.
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STEP:
8
Insert the upper action button into each of the holes and make sure there is no interference. You may struggle with the lowest edge that was against the print bed due to elephants foot while printing. Use the appropriate tool to remove the edge flush with the orifice.
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STEP:
9
Once you are happy with the fit, Print 11 more of the parts to create 12 Upper action button assemblies in total. I highly recommend you ensure all led cathodes point upwards towards the top of the unit to make it easier to connect the wires later.
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STEP:
10
Repeat steps 5-9 for the Main Action Buttons. The button base is part 41.
41a for filament print
41B for resin print.
The button tops you also have 4 choices:
42-57A filament print engraved text
42-57B filament print embossed text
42-57C resin print engraved text
42-57D resin print embossed text
YOU ONLY NEED TO PRINT ONE VERSION NOT ALL 4!
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STEP:
11
Repeat steps 5-9 for the Letter Buttons. The button base is part 72.
72A for filament print
72B for resin print.
The button tops you also have 4 choices:
10-39A filament print engraved text
10-39B filament print embossed text
10-39C resin print engraved text
10-39D resin print embossed text
YOU ONLY NEED TO PRINT ONE VERSION NOT ALL 4!
Click on image for more details
STEP:
12
Repeat steps 5-9 for the Number Buttons. The button base is part 58.
58A for filament print
58B for resin print.
The button tops you also have 4 choices:
60-71A filament print engraved text
60-71B filament print embossed text
60-71C resin print engraved text
60-71D resin print embossed text
YOU ONLY NEED TO PRINT ONE VERSION NOT ALL 4!
Click on image for more details
STEP:
13
Install the Qty 5, 5mm Leds into the position with the correct colours. Bend the legs over to help secure them in place. Make sure the longer legs (anode)always face the same direction for ease of wiring.
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STEP:
14
Take the 8A led dimmer unit apart, and remove the 10K ohm pot. Or use a new pot. Install into the baseplate ensuring:
1)The led legs are clear
2)The locating tang is located in the orifice.
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STEP:
15
Install the supplied pot lock nut, and gently tighten.
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STEP:
16
Install the buttons by pushing them through the holes in the backplate. Bend the four outer legs outwards to temporarily secure them.
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STEP:
17
Continue to install all 67 buttons into the baseplate. Take your time, be gentle but firm. Once placed into position, I would confirm that all buttons press down and click! Correct any that do not.
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STEP:
17.1
Install the LCD screen with the ribbon cable downwards and located in the recess.
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STEP:
18
Install the faceplate over the baseplate and buttons. Give each button and gentle wiggle as you lower the faceplate down into position. Ensure there are no stuck buttons!
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STEP:
19
Install Qty 8, M3 x 6mm countersunk screws into the baseplate to secure the faceplate.
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STEP:
20
Install the 3 annunciators (5,6 &7), into the faceplate.
A = Filament print
B= Resin print
Superglue may be required if they are a loose fit.
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STEP:
21
Install the Handle (2) with Qty2, M3 x 8mm dome head screws.
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STEP:
22
Install the Dimmer knob (4)
A=Filament
B=Resin
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STEP:
23
Install the LCD screen motherboard with Qty 4, M4 x 5mm dome head screws. Insert the LCD ribbon cable into the connector.
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STEP:
24
Install the menu select board with Qty 2, M3 x 6mm screws.
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STEP:
25
Install the Arduino mount (80) with Qty 3, M4 x 8mm screws.
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STEP:
26
Install the VGA port, Remove the Qty2 screws and the backplate from the connector. Install the connector with the Qty 2 screws into the mounting plate.
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STEP:
27
Install the 12v power port, it should be a tight fit. If it's a little loose, use a small amount of hot glue.
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STEP:
28
Install the Arduino Mega into the mount.
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STEP:
29
To connect all the LEDs wire each set of 4 in series and add a resistor to each set before connecting them to 12vDC. Connect the ground of the buttons by daisy-chaining them, and connect the output leg of the switch to its own Arduino pin. To aid in dimming an external PWM 12VDC dimmer can be connected inline to power source and LED's. remove the potentiometer from the dimmer unit. Place it into the FMC. The extend the pot wires from the dimmer to the FMC. This will allow all LEDs to be controlled by the same amount at the same time.
Programming was carried out using Mobiflight and prosim utilising FSUIPC like in my past videos.
Hi-Res image can be found here:
https://031b6b45-11f6-46a7-ab8e-17be9aef4dad.usrfiles.com/ugd/031b6b_1db1d8fa708341f086d77ed8d1f0d01d.pdf