
C172 Main Panel
This page is split into three main sections:
Parts Guide
Print Guide
Build Guide
The ultimate printer I can recommend is the Bambu Labs X1 carbon with AMS or P1P if you have deep pockets. ($1200). It's a massive leap forward in 3D printing, with excellent quality and impressive speeds. It's pretty much press print and go as the software and hardware do the calibration before each print.

This is designed to be small and compact for those people who want the full experience but do not have much space. This sim came about as a necessity of our return back to the UK where the houses are much smaller. The unit can be pushed up against the monitor and can be desktop mounted or free standing. The instrument panel is smaller than the actual aircraft, to minimise its overall size. Its overall dimensions are: 920mm (W) 270mm (H) 200mm (D)
It's also a great aircraft to get in and go fly. Perfect for those landing challenges in MSFS2020.
Please Note: This is a work in progress, as such the ADI and altimeter are blanks and are yet to be designed.
General Information:

Build Guide

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STEP:
1
READ STEPS 1-3 BEFORE CUTTING!
If you have a CNC/Laser Machine or would like the CAD file, Please click the relevant link below:
C172 MIP with G1000 V1 CAD: https://a360.co/4kQ5zin
C172 MIP with G1000 V2 CAD: https://a360.co/4kCYfGI
Download the PDF file below for the Cessna 172 MIP dimensions:
https://031b6b45-11f6-46a7-ab8e-17be9aef4dad.usrfiles.com/ugd/031b6b_e25143be456d48c9946f1b2e6ea664e6.pdf
Cut the panel from 9mm MDF or similar.

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STEP:
2
To help get the correct contour for the panel glare shield, download the cut template and print. Place the unit over the upper corners and draw a line along the contoured edge. Use a jigsaw to cut along the line.
Click here for the STL Download:
https://031b6b45-11f6-46a7-ab8e-17be9aef4dad.usrfiles.com/archives/031b6b_d04a32eb4d864f4ebc463fa9f9235f32.zip

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STEP:
3
Dont worry so much about the interior holes, I would recommend marking the rough positions and then use the 3D printed parts as templates to locate all the screw holes positions exactly.

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STEP:
4
There are now two options available to you. This is the short desktop version

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STEP:
5
This is the free-standing Unit. Decide which version you want to create and cut the parts from the PDF:
https://031b6b45-11f6-46a7-ab8e-17be9aef4dad.usrfiles.com/ugd/031b6b_f510e50dc2e3443a8e83add85e37adb8.pdf
Pre-drilling a 3mm hole in the wood, prior to inserting a screw will stop the wood from splitting.

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STEP:
6
Place the vertical into position over the foot. Secure the parts with Qty 2, 2-1/2" wood screws.

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STEP:
7
Place the Brace into position and use QTY 2, 1 1/2" screws to secure the brace

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STEP:
8
Turn the unit over, and secure the lower end of the Brace with a single 2-1/2" screw.

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STEP:
9
Create another side, mirrored from the first.

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STEP:
10
Insert lower Lower Horizontal, Secure with QTY 4, 2-1/2" wood screws.

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STEP:
11
Insert the upper Hori and secure it with a further Qty 4, 2-1/2" woodscrews.

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STEP:
12
Insert the 3D printed banking plates into the panel. There are two types depending on yoke fitment. One is totally blank allowing no fitment of the yoke within the panel. The other allows the Yoke to be fitted through the panel. The STL's can be downloaded here:
https://031b6b45-11f6-46a7-ab8e-17be9aef4dad.usrfiles.com/archives/031b6b_e53c76e8df5c4e0081aec5fa3408aae1.zip

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STEP:
13
Secure the blanking panel with QTY 3, M4 x 8mm countersunk screws.

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STEP:
14
Secure the yoke blank with Qty 4, M4 x 8mm countersunk screws.

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STEP:
15
The panels should look like this, the left hand one allows the yoke to be fitted through the panel.

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STEP:
16
Use Screws to attach the instrument panel to the frame. I used M4 x 30mm countersunk screws with countersunk washers. Normal black button head screws can be used.

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STEP:
17
If you used the yoke panel, after fitting the yoke through the panel, insert the filler panel

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STEP:
18
Secure the filler panel with an M4 x 25mm Countersunk screw.

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STEP:
19
Place the completed glare shield over the top of the panel.

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STEP:
20
Use M4 x 25mm Screws to attach the glareshield to the panel. (Again I used countersunk screws with cup washers). You can ensure the glareshield id fitted firmly then use a 3mm drill to pilot drill the holes in the correct position. Remove the glareshield and drill the holes out to 4.5mm.

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STEP:
21
Insert the completed AV panel into the main panel.
The design can be found here:
https://www.737diysim.com/product-page/c172-av-panel
The build guide can be found here:
https://www.737diysim.com/build-guides-1/c172-av-panel

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STEP:
22
Secure the panel with QTY 5, M4 x 10mm screws.

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STEP:
23
Insert the completed G1000 Panels into the panel.
The design can be found here:
https://www.737diysim.com/product-page/garmin-g1000-g1000-nxi-cad-stl-files
The Build guide can be found here:
https://www.737diysim.com/build-guides-1/garmin-g1000-%26-g1000-nxi

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STEP:
24
Secure each G1000 with Qty 3, M4 x 20mm countersunk screws

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STEP:
25
Insert the completed GMA-1347 audio panel.
The design can be found here:
https://www.737diysim.com/product-page/gma-1347-audio-panel
The build guide can be found here:
https://www.737diysim.com/build-guides-1/gma-1347-audio-panel

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STEP:
26
Secure the Audio panel with the Mounts (6) and Qty 2, M4 x 25mm screws.

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STEP:
27
Slightly tighten the screws to ensure the panelk is held firmly in position.

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STEP:
28
Insert the completed ASI into the orifice. Secure with Qty 3, M4 x 25mm Screws.

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STEP:
29
Insert the ADI blank into the orifice. Secure with Qty 4, M4 x 25mm Screws.
The STL is Below:
https://031b6b45-11f6-46a7-ab8e-17be9aef4dad.usrfiles.com/archives/031b6b_764ebe7bccee4a7fa76b99de11b6f01a.zip

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STEP:
30
Insert the Altimeter blank into the orifice. Secure with Qty 3, M4 x 25mm Screws.
The STL is Below:
https://031b6b45-11f6-46a7-ab8e-17be9aef4dad.usrfiles.com/archives/031b6b_d839606f97ee4381bd861ea839130d47.zip

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STEP:
31
Insert the ELT replica into the orrifce. Use Qty 4, M3 x 8mm Screws to secure the unit.
