737SS Annunciator
This page is split into three main sections:
Parts Guide
Print Guide
Build Guide
The ultimate printer I can recommend is the Bambu Labs X1 carbon with AMS or P1P if you have deep pockets. ($1200). It's a massive leap forward in 3D printing, with excellent quality and impressive speeds. It's pretty much press print and go as the software and hardware do the calibration before each print.
These are specifically designed for the new 737SS. Very simple construction and lenses and bases are available in the webshop. Unlike other annunicators, these can utilise white LED tactile switches and the annunciator lenses are created from the coloured perspex. The dual tactile switces allow both test to press function and in some cases, function acknowglement. For best results, a resin printer is highly recommended. These also come with a 3d printed backing cage for easy and removable fitment to the aircraft panels.
General Information:
Build Guide
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STEP:
0
To watch the build video for this project, click on the link provided below:
https://youtu.be/iFWUShxq7yk
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STEP:
1
First, position the PCB on a firm, level surface with the diodes facing upwards. Next, use a pair of side cutters to hold the 2-pin male headers by the long side of the pin against the plastic bush.
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STEP:
2
To move the plastic part against the PCB, gently press down on it without squeezing the cutters. It's essential to keep the cutters free to slide down the pins.
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STEP:
3
Repeat this for both sets of pins. When the short side of the pins is fitted to the PCB, they must not protrude through the lower surface of the PCB.
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STEP:
4
Solder the four pins to the PCB. Do not apply too much solder. You want the surface to remain flat/Level.
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STEP:
5
Here, you can see that the solder is flush with the PCB.
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STEP:
6
Insert QTY 2 6mm Tactile LED switches. White can be used for any colour because the lens fronts are created from coloured acrylic. Please ensure you pay careful attention to the orientation of the Anode and cathode.
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STEP:
7
Solder all 12 pins; try to keep the solder blob to a minimum on this side of the board.
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STEP:
8
Trim all 12 legs as close as possible to the board.
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STEP:
9
For a 3mm faceplanel fitment, place an M3 x 12mm screw into the PCB between the switches.
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STEP:
10
Place the Korry Centre onto the led switches. Start engaging one side of both switches at a 30-degree angle, then slowly and firmly push the components together. There should be an audible click, and the centre case should be firmly attached to the PCB assembly.
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STEP:
11
Place the Centre assy into the Outer case.
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STEP:
12
Insert a small screwdriver through the centre case to hold the screw head. Place an M3 nut on the screw threads against the outer case to hold the assemblies firmly together.
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STEP:
13
Insert the diffuser lens and ensure it is pushed to the bottom. This should be a tight fit. A bit of super glue may be used otherwise.
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STEP:
14
Place the lens onto the centre case.
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STEP:
15
Turn the unit over and on a hard flat surface, push hard on the back of the case. This will seat the lens flat and flush with the centre case rim.
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STEP:
18
Place the annunciator into the faceplate.
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STEP:
19
Place the outer cage over the back of the replica korry
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STEP:
20
Secure the whole assembly with an M3 nut. Be gentle!
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STEP:
21
The wiring diagram PDF can be found here:https://031b6b45-11f6-46a7-ab8e-17be9aef4dad.usrfiles.com/ugd/031b6b_34ea3bcae0f741c9b0be0894052d2841.pdf