
Boeing 737 Motorised Throttle2
This page is split into three main sections:
Parts Guide
Print Guide
Build Guide
The ultimate printer I can recommend is the Bambu Labs X1 carbon with AMS or P1P if you have deep pockets. ($1200). It's a massive leap forward in 3D printing, with excellent quality and impressive speeds. It's pretty much press print and go as the software and hardware do the calibration before each print.

Welcome to the second part of our 5-series build guide! Please note that the MTU build guides 1-5 are not version numbers but a single build guide divided into smaller sections.
Build Guide 1-3 Mechanical Build
Build Guide 4 Smaller Printer Mod Build
Build Guide 5 Prosim Programming
A separate PMDG Programming Guide created Bjarne Bracke
You must gather all the necessary parts listed across the 5 Build pages to complete this build. Unfortunately, there are too many parts to fit on a single page, so we had to limit it to 20 parts per page.
In my opinion, this design surpasses the previous throttle designs, and I highly recommend it over V3. Keeping it simple without motorization is sufficient, as the basic controls offer an awesome feel and operation. It is a fully 3D printed design that comes with motorised Trim Wheels, Throttle levers, speed brake, parking brake, and Trim indicators.
Please note that this design requires a print size of 300mm x 300mm. However, if your machine has a build bed of 220 x 220mm, there is an available smaller print mod that you can use.
General Information:

Build Guide

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STEP:
122
Install the throttle guide Plate (R1) on the case(C3).

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STEP:
123
Attach with Qty 3, M4 x 10mm countersunk screws.

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STEP:
124
Install the Nema sliding plate R3 on the stepper motor. Secure with Qty 4, M3 x 6mm Countersunk Screws.

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STEP:
124.1
Place the R2 spur gear 8T onto the end of the shaft. This should be a tight friction fit. If the unit is too loose, shrink the component slightly and reprint.

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STEP:
125
Install Qty 2, M4 x 30mm screws into the holding lugs of item R4

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STEP:
126
Place the motor assy on the case as shown, Ideally the stepper motor connection should face down.

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STEP:
127
Place the Drive clamp R4 over the top and secure with Qty 4, M4 x 10mm countersunk screws from the backside.

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STEP:
128
Install the long arm microswitch with a roller into position. Place an m3 x 14mm screw through the upper hole. Ensure the unit is free to rotate.

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STEP:
129
Insert an M3 x 20mm countersunk screw through the banana slot into the lower hole of the microswitch.
Secure with an M3 locknut. Adjust the microswitch arm so that the roller protrudes into the cutout orrifce.

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STEP:
130
Install Qty2, M2 x 8mm screws into the Hall sensor and sliding plate R6

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STEP:
131
Install an M4 x 25mm Bolt into the adjustment lug as shown.

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STEP:
132
Install the spur gear R5 onto the pot shaft. This should be a tight friction fit. There is a hole for an M3 grub screw if required.

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STEP:
133
Place the Hall Assy on the flat side of C3

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STEP:
134
Secure with Qty 3, M4 x 10mm Countersunk Screws

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STEP:
135
Install the Nema 17 stepper motor onto the sliding plate R9. Secure with Qty 4, M3 x 6mm screws.

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STEP:
136
Instal the tension bolt M4 x 20mm into the adjustment lug.

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STEP:
137
Install spur gear R8 onto the shaft. This should be a very tight friction fit.

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STEP:
138
Place the drive assy into the case C3

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STEP:
139
Secure with Qty 4, M4 x 10mm countersunk screws.

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STEP:
140
Place the hall sensor with the supplied mounting plate over the support lugs. Secure with Qty 2, M3 x 6mm dome head screws.

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STEP:
141
Place the Spur gear R11 onto the hall sensor shaft. It should be a tight fit, there is an orifice for an additional M3 grub screw if required.

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STEP:
142
Place the Flaps detent bracket (R12) into position and secure with Qty 5, M4 x 12mm countersunk screws

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STEP:
143
Insert Qty 2, 6002 bearings into the flaps stem (R17). Ensure the bearings are flush with the inboard surface.

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STEP:
144
Insert the Flaps handle R13 on flaps stem R13. Secure with an M3 x 16mm countersunk screw. You can print the upper stem (R13) and use it as a template for the aluminium bar.

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STEP:
145
Insert the Flaps Caddy R15 on the upper stem R13. Insert the lower stem R16 into the caddy and secure it with an M4 x 16mm countersunk screw. The screw should protrude out the other side. This is used for the location of the lever. You will need an M4 tap to create threads in the aluminium bar of the lower stem R16. This will enable the screw to tighten against the aluminium bar.

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STEP:
146
The shows how the assembly should look from the backside and how the screw needs to protrude out.

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STEP:
147
Place the flaps lever assy into the flaps stem assy. Use an M4 x 10mm dome head screw to secure the expansion spring (approx. 5mm x 38mm) into position at the lower end.

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STEP:
148
Secure the other end of the spring with an M4 x 10mm dome head screw.

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STEP:
149
Place another expansion spring (approx. 5x38mm over the protruding screw ends.

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STEP:
150
Place the flaps lever into position. At this point, you NEED to connect the hall sensor to a computer via an interface card such as a Leo Bodnar. Set the handle to the mid position and then ensure the Sensor is mid position. Secure in place. You do not want to build the whole unit to have to take it apart to align the sensors!

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STEP:
151
Insert Qty 2 on/off toggle switches into the stab trim cutout position. Secure with the supplied lock nuts.

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STEP:
152
The lock nuts and thread protrusion of the toggle switches on the outside need to be adjusted to suit your needs when the decal is placed into position.

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STEP:
153
Place 12v Led strip (warm white) into the recess and connect the necessary wires. Feed the cables through the cut out into the internal body space.

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STEP:
154
Place the decal into position and secure with Qty 4, M3 x 6mm Dome head screws.

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STEP:
155
Place 12v Led warm white strip lighting into the flaps decal recess. Connect the wires and feed them through the hole into the internal body space.

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STEP:
156
Place the flaps decal on and secure with Qty2, M4 x 6mm dome head screws.

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STEP:
157
Insert the 16mm push button into position (after connecting the cables). This should be a tight friction fit. addition hot glue may be required.

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STEP:
157.1
Using Qty2, M4 x 10mm Screws, secure R20 to the case. Ensure they are flush, or below the surface.

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STEP:
158
Build the No2 start lever the same way as No1 (steps 83 to 90)

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STEP:
159
Place the No2 start lever into position.

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STEP:
160
Build the no2 throttle like No1. (Steps 1 to 42)

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STEP:
161
Place the No2 throttle over the start lever

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STEP:
162
Insert an M8 x 80mm bolt through the unit. At this point, you NEED to connect the hall sensor to a computer via an interface card such as a Leo Bodnar. Set the handle to the mid position and then ensure the Sensor is mid position. Secure in place. You do not want to build the whole unit to have to take it apart to align the sensors!

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STEP:
163
Secure with an M8 washer and locknut. Do not overtighten.

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STEP:
164
Place the RHS assembly onto the LHS assembly

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STEP:
165
Secure the two parts together with Qty 6, M4 x 25mm countersunk screws.

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STEP:
165.1
Secure the reverse lock with Qty 2, M4 x 12mm countersunk Screws
(Thanks to Ido for the missed step)

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STEP:
166
Place 12v led strip into the recess of R24

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STEP:
167
Place the decal R25 into position and secure it with Qty 2, M4 x 8mm dome head screws.

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STEP:
167.1
Place the flaps case assembly into position and secure with Qty 4, M4 x 10mm Countersunk Screws.

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STEP:
168
Place the Fuel Cutout Decal (Tw29) into Position and secure with Qty 2, M4 x 8mm Countersunk Screws.

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STEP:
169
Place TW30 & 31 together. Secure to the centre section with Qty 3, M4 x 16mm Countersunk Screws.

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STEP:
170
Repeat for the other sections(TW30 to TW37) and secure with M4 x 16mm countersunk screws.

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STEP:
171
The strips should look like this when finished.
